The popular ‘permanent pop-up’ restaurant in Dallas, KitchenLTO in Trinity Groves, changes the concept and menu every four months. Recently former Dallas chef Blythe Beck, previously of The Mansion, Hector’s and now closed Central 214, took the helm at LTO. Beck brings with her a reputation of ‘naughty’ dishes that are by no means meant for dieting or healthy eating and everyone is aware of that. Artist Salma Gottfried brings a fresh feel to the space with canvases of Dallas local sights and scenes that bring local flare.

We had reservations later on Monday evening and our table of 4 remained one of 3 tables occupied in the full restaurant. I’ll attribute that to both patio options and Dallas’ lack of early week dining  out scene. The wine and cocktail list at KitchenLTO has seen an increase in bourbon and rye as well as rich wines to compliment Chef Becks heavy menu.  Classics like the Aviation and The LAST Word are now met by cheeky, sugary sips like Naughty Redhead and Sweet Tea Mojito. We decided on wine and moved on to the main menu. KitchenLTO provides diners the option to order a la carte or choose a 3 or 5-course tasting menu at $40 and around $60 respectively. Our table shared the “Southern Hospitality” ($14) starter. Something was off here between the luke warm Fried Oaxaca pieces, the tiny portion of pimento cheese and a sad pile of Prosciutto on the opposite side of the plate. For the name, one might expect a cornucopia of southern specials that could feed an army but after a few bites of each on crackers we were finished. Pressing on, this southern boy didn’t let the starters spoil the lot.

For mains, we sampled the Bacon Cheddar Meatloaf ($19), the Iceberg Babies ($8), Fall Butter Lettuce ($10) and half-portion Chicken Fried Ribeye ($21). First, the meatloaf is not to be missed. Decadent and sided with Brussels Sprout Petals, Pimento Mac N Cheese this isn’t your mamas meatloaf. However, the mac was similar to the previous cheese in its temperature nature. The ribeye is a cowboys portion with more than enough Naughty Creamed Corn and Bacon Redeye Gravy to go around. This won the table over. The salads were fine, with plenty of naughty touches like bacon and smoked pecan accents.  I had planned on ordering Maker’s Mark Banana Pudding, the waffle or butter cake but couldn’t quite bring our table to agreement that it was worth it this time. A first for me! I think given a fuller crowd and warmer dishes this place could hit all the right notes. For now, the naughty will need more nice.