I often refer to comfort food as a hug to ourselves courtesy of our tastebuds. If that statement rings true with you, then I’ve got a mecca for thoughtful, comforting, well-executed “hugs” that come in the form of bites, sips and sights. Chef Graham Dodds worked at the famed Grape Restaurant then Harvey Hotel (which he learned from mentor Sharon Hage- a pioneer in Dallas’ seasonal food movement) and Star Canyon with Stephan Pyles. In 2008, he opened Bolsa in the heart of Oak Cliff, where he fine-tuned his devotion to hyper-local and ultra seasonal cuisine, gaining recognition for his ever-evolving menus. Later, he moved into the role of Executive Chef at Central 214 where he appealed to both casual and adventurous palates. Dodds refined this high regard for seasonality in his experiences at Hibiscus from 2013 until most recently.
In Dodds most recent culinary undertaking he partnered with Brandon Hays & Phil Schanbaum (So & So’s High Fives, Standard Pour, soon-to-open Whippersnapper) to open Wayward Sons on Lower Greenville. The restaurant is a proven progression of chef Dodd’s hyper focus on local, seasonal and Texas cuisine. His sincere approach and continued ethos of serving the highest level of ingredients will shine through in the authentic form that Dallas diners have come to expect from Dodds.
I recently had the pleasure of being invited into Wayward Sons to get a taste of what Hays, Schanbaum and Dodd are bringing to the table and didn’t leave disappointed. Between a perfectly prepared pair of cocktails (Old Fashioned and Dark & Stormy) and a down home open concept restaurant, I felt at ease immediately. The long bar is a great viewing area for hip and hungry restaurant goers, and the main dining room brings a sense of meaning full design and subtle chic seating.
We began with a super flavorful saffron aracini served over gulf shrimp, octopus and bright sofrito. An unexpectedly pleasant combination of ingredients proved to be a filling and great beginning to our meal. Another wonderful starter, the buffalo carpaccio provided an awesome array of textures when topped with crispy farro “trail mix” and san isidro cheese. Dodds truly pays homage to a local to table driven selection of ingredients. If you are looking for something on the lighter side, a take on the waldorf with pine nuts, escarole & slow roasted grapes was good but a little over dressed for our liking. The hazelnut crusted goat cheese salad with beef bacon, frisée and candied kumquats was fine, albeit we expected hot cheese after our waiter told us it was “in the fryer” for quite some time.
Main courses did not fail us at Wayward Sons. A delicious and light blackened redfish with garden greens and red pepper sauce was really great. The tang and punch from pepper sauce complemented the boldly blackened fish. Dodds served a goat brisket to me once and blew my mind, at Wayward he serves a lamb version with parsnip slaw that will make you smile. Sides included a wonderful southern charmer of homestead grits with goat cheese and mushroom ragout.
Gotta have dessert? You must here. Dodds pays tribute to Sharon Hage’s wonderful rhubarb pie in great form with a crust that is flakier than your worst date. (In this case, that’s a great thing)
