Few chances come along to attend a multi-course, chef and farmer driven beer dinner. Central214 at Hotel Palomar gave a room of around 40 people, myself included, that chance recently. Chef Graham Dodds partnering with Windy Hill and local Real Ale brewing company (who just turned 17 years old), was at the helm of the exclusively goat dinner. Goat has more protein than beef and less fat than chicken, so all the time that you thought it was a meat to be feared was wasted. Brewmaster Erik Ogershok of Real Ale provided a selection of beer pairings with each course. I thought I was a beer connoisseur but this tasting opened my sud-washed eyes.

We started with a Firemans #4 Blonde Ale, a personal favorite of mine due to the easy drinking and mellowed nature of the brew. Small bites included a deliciously crispy goat sweetbread with hints of lime and butter, goat heart tartare (not for the faint of heart or tongue) with a simply garlic aioli on a Texas Redneck cheddar cracker and a corned goat tongue with creme fraiche and herbs. Of all the three appetizers, the sweetbreads were a table favorite while the tartare suited my weird foods privy.

The seconds course began with sips of Full Moon Pale Ale. This beer used to be the number one brew before Firemans and is silky and tongue friendly. Paired with Tete Du Chèvre or sliced head cheese, with arugala and lemon (also tasted a spice sprinkle of some sort). Yes, the head cheese is what you think it is but for all intents and purposes it was delicious.

Next came a 2012 Vintage Sisyphus Barleywine Ale. The brew was a darker and more bitter sort which paired with a starchy plate of St. Davids Raclette (semi-firm, cow’s milk cheese), a sliced Yukon Gold and Goat Linguisa made of belly, shoulders and legs. The bite was fantastically seasoned with melted cheese and a salty snap from the sausage.

Fourth course: A Lost Gold IPA Blend, even darker but more mellow. Main course was a Hay Braised Goat Shank, trompetti, mocetta and charred onions. Heaven sent and tender and all get out as the shreds of goat tangled with the seasoned pasta. The mocetta, an aged goat leg, was almost proscuitto esque in its shaved and salty nature. I should mention that this goat course was cured goat from Africa.

The final savory course was paired with a Brewhouse Brown Ale. An American, extremely dark and thick brew with strong hop flavoring throughout. Sweet Spiced Goat Tenderloin with beets, turnips and blue roan cheese. Each goat provides two of these tenderloin filets, that means that at our table of 6 we ate the tenderloins of 3 goats. Eye opening fact. The beet and turnips provided a light combative to the dark ale and paired well together.


Dessert course: A Shade Grown Coffee Porter, notes of ethiopian coffee and chocolate infused into this iced coffee tasting beer. I was weirded out by the coffee taste, but grew to enjoy this mock-starbucks brew. Dessert main was BloomBonnett Cajeta Flan with a spic(ed)y brittle cookie. This flan was spectacular. Notes of goats milk carmel sang on my tongue as a sharp kick from the spiced cookie balanced.
Dinners like this one remind us of the importances of relying on our local growers and brewers to stay true to their craft. The nature of the beast is that we forget that the meals we enjoy at our favorite local restaurants, depend on the bounty that our farmer friends tend to daily. Dodds impresses as a continuing proponent of local resources and many chefs in the area do as well. Stay seasonally savvy my friends.
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If you wish to attend the upcoming dinner at Central 214 see details here:
“All You Need is Love” Dinner for the Promise of Peace Community Garden
Central 214′s Chef Graham Dodds and guest Chef Chad Houser (Café Momentum) will be cooking up some love for the Promise of Peace Community Garden at this special five-course dinner with wine. Guests will also enjoy live music by Bob and Sally Ackerman and a raffle for a variety of luxury prizes.
All proceeds will go to the Promise of Peace Garden in East Dallas, supporting the summer kids’ camps and the building of a new garden at CC Young Retirement Center on Earth Day 2013, in collaboration with Kimpton’s Hotel Palomar Dallas and Central 214.
Price is $85 per person. Purchase tickets here: http://promiseofpeaceus.eventbrite.com/#